A James Beard winner spotlighting the cuisine of Kerala. The Meen Pollichathu is one of the year's most memorable plates.
By Tony Abraham
VisitedAugust 8, 2025
CuisineSouth Indian
NeighborhoodAvondale
Thattu shines a spotlight on the distinct cuisine of Kerala, a coastal state in South India. After taking home the James Beard Award for Best New Restaurant in 2023, the kitchen has the weight of expectation on its shoulders. Across two appetizers and two mains, that expectation was met — and once, exceeded.
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Appetizer
Kerala Fried Chicken
Thattu's Kerala Fried Chicken isn't just another fried chicken dish; it's a culinary experience that stands out in a city full of great options. Fried to absolute perfection, each piece boasts a delightfully crispy exterior that gives way to incredibly tender, juicy meat.
What truly sets it apart is the spice blend. You can distinctly taste the complex and aromatic spices infused into every bite, a signature of Keralite cooking. A subtle, earthy hint of curry leaves weaves its way through the flavor profile, adding a unique and memorable twist.
It's served with a sauce that provides a wonderful, bright tanginess, cutting through the richness. Pickled vegetables add fantastic crunchy texture and a sharp, acidic counterpoint that cleanses the palate. If I had one tiny wish, it would be for a touch more heat — the spice level is more aromatic than fiery.
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Appetizer
Kallumakaya — Seared Mussels
The Kallumakaya, or Seared Mussels, are a must-try for any seafood aficionado. Each one boasts a beautiful, deep sear, evidence of a skilled hand and a pan at just the right temperature.
They are coated in a fragrant masala spice blend that delivers an incredible depth of flavor. The heat is expertly balanced — present enough to be noticed and enjoyed, but subtle enough that it doesn't overpower the delicate taste of the mussels. Pickled carrots add a delightful crunchy element and welcome tanginess. A wonderfully executed dish that showcases a perfect balance of flavor and texture.
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Main
Malabar Chicken Biriyani
Thattu's Malabar Chicken Biriyani is hearty and comforting, though with a few minor imperfections. The rice is fragrant and flavorful, and the chicken is perfectly cooked, remaining tender and juicy. Cashews and raisins lend a pleasant sweetness and welcome crunch.
However, a few elements left me wanting more. The rice felt like it was missing a certain something. The roast gravy with the chicken was a bit lacking in depth. The biriyani chicken didn't have the same flavor impact as the incredible Kerala Fried Chicken appetizer. That said, the raita is excellent — cool, refreshing, and the perfect complement. A solid biriyani that satisfies, even if it doesn't reach the same exceptional heights.
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Main
Meen Pollichathu
If there is one dish at Thattu that can be described as a true showstopper, it is the Meen Pollichathu. This dish isn't just good; it's a flavor explosion from the very first bite and arguably the highlight of an already impressive menu.
The star is a perfectly cooked white fish, flaky and tender, enveloped in a flawless marinade and sauce. The sauce itself is a revelation — a deep, rich, umami-packed concoction that is intensely savory and leaves you wanting more long after the plate is clean. What elevates this from great to exceptional is the generous portion of that incredible sauce served over the fish, ensuring every single bite is saturated with flavor.
The dish is well-rounded, accompanied by a tasty vegetable thoran and tamarind rice with roasted peanuts adding fantastic, unexpected crunch. A symphony of flavors and textures that work in perfect harmony. I one hundred percent recommend this — an unforgettable plate of food.
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Dessert
Elanchi
Finishing a meal at Thattu with the Elanchi is a truly pleasant experience. This is not a typical dessert you'd find at most Indian restaurants, and it stands out for its unique and well-balanced character.
The dish is built around delicate crepes that have a wonderful texture and consistency. The true star is the jackfruit filling — incredibly flavorful without being overly sweet, offering a nuanced and sophisticated taste. Notes of saltiness and a bright tanginess from passionfruit and mango cut through the sweetness. My only suggestion is that it would be absolutely divine if served slightly warm, perhaps with simple vanilla ice cream instead of the whipped cream.
From the Bar
Liquid Notes
Order
Kadaloram
Refreshing, fruit-forward cocktail. Familiar smoky notes of mezcal nicely balanced by passionfruit and coconut sweetness. Well-mixed — alcohol present but not overpowering.
The Verdict
Dish Deconstructed
A four-pillar framework. One to five.
First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
4
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
4
/ 5
Honestly Speaking
The Meen Pollichathu is unforgettable. The Kerala Fried Chicken and Seared Mussels are essential.