Vol. I · New York · MMXXV
For Those Who Prioritize the Palate
A Review — Washington

Maketto

A communal marketplace from Chef Erik Bruner-Yang where the steamed bao and signature fried chicken anchor an inventive menu.

Maketto is a dynamic communal marketplace combining a restaurant, cafe, bar, and retail space. Chef Erik Bruner-Yang's menu is a creative fusion of Cambodian and Taiwanese flavors. We came to test whether the all-day, all-purpose space serves the food as well as it serves the vibe.

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Appetizer

Pork Steamed Bao

Maketto's Pork Steamed Bao is an absolute must-try. The steamed bun itself is incredibly light and fluffy, with a delicious taste that perfectly complements the filling.

The star, however, is the pork. It's exceptionally well-seasoned and brimming with flavor, showcasing subtle notes of sweetness that make each bite a delight. The accompanying sauce is good, but honestly, the pork is so flavorful that you could easily enjoy it without any sauce at all. One of the better steamed buns I've had.

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Appetizer

Spicy Cauliflower

Regrettably, the Spicy Cauliflower proved to be something of a letdown, falling short of the vibrant, punchy flavors one might anticipate. The cauliflower itself, while cooked properly, was encased in a rather thick and heavy batter that tended to dominate the palate.

Despite its name, the dish lacked any significant heat, presenting only a mildly savory profile. The most disappointing element was the sauce, which left a subtle yet noticeable bitter aftertaste. For future visits, I'll be exploring other options on the menu.

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Main

Maketto Fried Chicken

If you're looking for a standout dish, the Maketto Fried Chicken is an absolute must-order. The chicken is incredibly juicy and perfectly cooked, with a super crispy exterior that provides a satisfying crunch in every bite.

This isn't your average fried chicken; the flavor is rich and complex, with a well-balanced blend of spices and a subtle sweetness from the caramel glaze. There's just the right amount of heat to make it exciting without being overpowering.

What truly elevates this dish are the added textures from the fresh leaves, fried shallots, and peppers. While the house-made bread served with it is a decent accompaniment — could be a touch more moist — the chicken itself is so well-seasoned and flavorful that it's a definite highlight.

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Dessert

Mochi Beignets

For a truly excellent dessert, the Mochi Beignets are a must-try. From the very first bite, you'll notice their light and airy texture, with a perfectly crispy exterior that gives way to a pleasantly soft interior. The mochi provides a subtle, neutral flavor — an ideal canvas for the other components.

What truly elevates this dessert is the vibrant lemon curd. Its tangy flavor cuts through the sweetness of the generous dusting of powdered sugar, creating a beautifully balanced and memorable experience.

From the Bar

Liquid Notes

Order

Chinese Opera

A creative and unique take on the classic pisco sour. Delightful balance of slightly fruity and tangy flavors, with the pisco's presence pleasantly mild. Incredibly refreshing — easily one of the best cocktails on the menu.

The Verdict

Dish Deconstructed

A four-pillar framework. One to five.

First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
4
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
4
/ 5
Honestly Speaking

The Fried Chicken is a destination plate. The Pork Steamed Bao doesn't even need its sauce.

In Context

The Critics, Side by Side

Honestly Speaking 3.75 / 5
Yelp4.2 / 5
Google4.6 / 5