A modern Kerala narrative in the heart of the city. The pulinji and the amuse-bouche idli redefine what South Indian fine dining can look like in New York.
By Tony Abraham
VisitedNovember 1, 2025
CuisineModern Kerala
NeighborhoodEast Village
Kidilum NYC marks a sophisticated departure from the traditional Kerala dining experience. It trades the often-hectic energy of its peers for a cozy, intimate atmosphere and an open-kitchen model that invites you into the process. The vibe is curated and calm — a refreshing outlier for South Indian cuisine in New York.
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Amuse-Bouche
Mini Podi Idli
A stellar start. These bite-sized idlis are served with a coconut chammanthi so good I could eat it all day. When combined with the curry leaf oil, every element works in tandem to deliver a familiar, nostalgic, and wholesome punch of flavor.
It's the kind of opening salvo that recalibrates expectations for everything that follows.
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Small Plate
Pulinji — Tender Pork Rib
This is a masterclass in execution. The ribs are beautifully cooked and fall-off-the-bone tender. The interplay of ginger, tamarind, and palm jaggery provides a slight heat and deep acidity that complements the pork perfectly.
Simple, flavorful, and flawlessly executed. The kind of plate that makes you wish more places treated their proteins with this level of care.
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Small Plate
Pollichathu — Banana Leaf Prawns
The standout here is the onion tomato marmalade, which provides a massive flavor base for the prawns. While the prawns were slightly on the well-done side — losing a bit of tenderness — the dish remains remarkable, especially when paired with the Vattayappam side.
A small adjustment on protein timing would push this from very good to essential.
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Main
Thalassery Biriyani
A solid, well-portioned biriyani with rice that carries great aromatics and well-cooked goat. It leans on the sweeter side due to an overabundance of raisins and could benefit from a touch more salt to balance the spices.
The heat is manageable — not too spicy, but definitely present. A good biriyani that, with minor seasoning tweaks, could easily be a great one.
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Dessert
Ilaneer Payasam
A beautifully well-rounded dessert. It's a medley of textures — foamed coconut cream that is incredibly light, paired with a satisfying crunch and ice cream. It manages to deliver deep coconut flavor throughout without being overly sweet or heavy.
The perfect palate cleanser, and a confident note to end on.
From the Bar
Liquid Notes
Order
Ney
A complex, spirit-forward take on a Boulevardier using ghee-washed bourbon. Strong orange aroma and intricate layers, though the bourbon itself is surprisingly shy. A slow burn that grows on you.
Order
Manga
Pure refreshment. Built on tequila blanco and clarified mango — leads with a bright fruit aroma and lets subtle mango and passion fruit flavors take center stage. Not alcohol-heavy.
The Verdict
Dish Deconstructed
A four-pillar framework. One to five.
First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
4
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
3
/ 5
Honestly Speaking
Don't skip the Mini Podi Idli amuse-bouche — that coconut chammanthi is reason enough to return. The Pulinji pork ribs are a masterclass in execution.