Vol. I · New York · MMXXV
For Those Who Prioritize the Palate
A Review — New York

Il Bucco

Italian tradition meets the Iberian Peninsula. The risotto is among the city's best — the steak, less so.

Il Bucco has long been celebrated for its commitment to seasonality and ingredient integrity. Drawing inspiration from both mother Italy and the Iberian Peninsula, it offers something rare: a kitchen with conviction. We came to test that conviction across four courses.

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Appetizer

Ceviche

The Ceviche, featuring red snapper, is a dish that approaches perfection in the first bite. It is incredibly flavorful, and notably, it doesn't really have the fishy taste often associated with red snapper, which is a testament to its freshness and preparation.

The cilantro definitely elevates the dish, providing a fresh, herbaceous note; however, one might wish for more cilantro for every bite to fully experience its impact. The accompanying sauce is not too tangy and perfectly compliments the fish.

A subtle spiciness through jalapeños is a welcome addition, adding a gentle kick without overwhelming the palate. There's a delightful crunchiness from the snow peas and the radish, providing excellent textural contrast. Overall, this is definitely a great ceviche and comes highly recommended.

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First Course

Lobster Mushroom Risotto

As a true aficionado, I'm always eager to sample risotto, a dish notoriously easy to get wrong. However, the Risotto here delivers an exceptional experience from the first bite, which is simply super flavorful.

The addition of crunchy lobster mushrooms and peas provides a fantastic textural contrast that perfectly complements the creamy risotto. The rice is cooked to perfection, achieving that ideal al dente bite without being undercooked. The seasoning is spot-on — not too salty, just the right amount, allowing the natural flavors to shine.

This is undoubtedly one of the best risottos I've had recently, and easily one of the best in the city. Each bite leaves you wanting more, a true sign of a masterfully executed dish.

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Second Course

Skirt Steak

The Skirt Steak presented a mixed experience. While the steak was cooked well (medium rare), it was unfortunately a bit chewy, which impacted the overall texture.

What made the dish more cohesive was its accompaniment. Combined with the relish and arugula, along with the baked sweet potato and broccolini, it formed a wholesome dish. All the accompanying vegetables were cooked well and flavorful, adding much-needed balance. The decision to include the sweet potato was smart — it provides a pleasant, earthy sweetness that just works.

However, a notable absence was a suitable sauce. I miss having some sort of sauce for the steak, and the relish didn't really make up for the lack of it. Ultimately, while the components were good, I've had better skirt steaks elsewhere.

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Dessert

Il Bucco Panna Cotta with 10yr aged Balsamic

From the first bite, this Panna Cotta with 10yr aged Balsamic is a complete flavor bomb. The panna cotta itself is not too sweet, lending it a sophisticated and refined taste.

The star of the show, the tanginess of the balsamic, perfectly complements the creamy custard, leaving a delightful and pleasant aftertaste. The panna cotta is super consistent in texture, and the custard is thankfully not too heavy, making it a light and enjoyable dessert.

The combination of the custard and the balsamic is truly brilliant, showcasing a thoughtful and delicious pairing. This is definitely another dish that I would come back for.

From the Bar

Liquid Notes

Order

Summer Spritz

A truly refreshing summer drink — fruity and prosecco-forward. The strawberry-rosemary shrub adds a subtle and pleasant undertone. The gin is barely noticeable, making this overall light and very approachable.

Elena's Martini

Distinct medicinal note, with the botanicals of the gin being very prominent. The vermouth is hardly detectable. A potent cocktail characterized by its strong flavor and unique aroma.

The Verdict

Dish Deconstructed

A four-pillar framework. One to five.

First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
4
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
4
/ 5
Honestly Speaking

Come for the Risotto, Ceviche, and Panna Cotta — three exceptional plates that overshadow a merely good steak.

In Context

The Critics, Side by Side

Honestly Speaking 3.75 / 5
Yelp3.8 / 5
Google4.4 / 5
The Infatuation8.3 / 10