Vol. I · New York · MMXXV
For Those Who Prioritize the Palate
A Review — Washington

Daru

A contemporary Indian restaurant promising innovation. The Black Dal Burrata is a revelation — the rest of the menu doesn't quite catch up.

Daru positions itself as a novel Indian restaurant — a contemporary exploration of beloved flavors with creative presentations. We came hoping for the next chapter of modern Indian cooking. What we found was one extraordinary dish surrounded by missed opportunities.

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Appetizer

Mango Shrimp Bhel

The Mango Shrimp Bhel offers a delightful and flavorful take on traditional Indian street food, though it comes with a few minor missteps. The undisputed star is the perfectly grilled shrimp — succulent and cooked just right.

The puffed rice delivers that essential crunchy element, adding satisfying contrast. However, not everything hits the mark. The tamarind sauce is a bit too sweet, potentially overpowering the more subtle nuances. And despite the dish's name, the mango slices don't seem to contribute much, feeling more like a garnish than an integral flavor enhancer.

A small addition of cilantro could have truly elevated the dish. Decent overall, with strong points in its star shrimp and well-balanced spicy-tangy base.

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Side

Black Dal Burrata

The Black Dal Burrata is not just a dish; it's a revelation, standing out as the undisputed highlight of the menu and quite possibly the best dish offered.

From the first spoonful, it's clear this dish is super flavorful. The dal achieves a perfect balance, being super creamy yet possessing just the right amount of saltiness, creating a truly harmonious taste experience.

What truly elevates this dish is the addition of burrata. The burrata introduces a different texture that complements the dal beautifully and imparts an elevated flavor profile that transforms a classic into something extraordinary. This dish is so exceptional that it frankly should be a main rather than a side.

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Dessert

Gulab Jamun

The Gulab Jamun offers a delightful and elevated take on the beloved traditional Indian sweet. The jamun itself is good, with great texture and consistency, avoiding the common pitfall of being either too dense or too crumbly. Crucially, it's not too sweet.

What truly sets this dessert apart is the cardamom ice cream — its subtle spice beautifully complementing the sweetness of the jamun. The pistachio pieces provide the essential crunchy element, adding a delightful textural contrast. A testament to how a classic can be reimagined with exquisite results.

From the Bar

Liquid Notes

Divine Contraband

Despite its intriguing name, a significant letdown. Very strong alcohol taste that overpowered all other notes — could only taste the bourbon and the bitters. Disappointed.

Fizzy Tamarind

Non-alcoholic. Tastes more like a slightly spicier Lime Soda, with the lime overpowering pretty much all the flavors. Doesn't really live up to the tamarind name.

The Verdict

Dish Deconstructed

A four-pillar framework. One to five.

First Bite
2
/ 5
Flavor Journey
3
/ 5
Technical Execution
2
/ 5
Order Again
2
/ 5
Honestly Speaking

Order the Black Dal Burrata — it should be a main, not a side. Skip almost everything else.

In Context

The Critics, Side by Side

Honestly Speaking 2.25 / 5
Yelp4.4 / 5
Google4.6 / 5