Vol. I · New York · MMXXV
For Those Who Prioritize the Palate
A Review — New York

Bad Roman

A maximalist Italian-American spectacle at Columbus Circle. Behind the whimsy, a Caesar salad that earns its place among the city's best.

Bad Roman is a maximalist take on red-sauce Italian — the room is loud, the decor is whimsical, the cocktails are creative. We came skeptical that a place this theatrical could care about the food. We were wrong, at least in places.

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Salad

Spicy Gem Caesar

At a place as vibrant as Bad Roman, it might be surprising that a Caesar salad could be a standout, but their Spicy Gem Caesar is truly in a league of its own. I'd go as far as to say it's one of the best Caesar salads you can find in New York City right now.

What makes it remarkable is its perfect sense of balance. The kitchen has mastered the art of dressing the crisp gem lettuce with just the right amount of creamy, savory dressing and a generous dusting of cheese. Every bite is coated but never soggy, and no single element is too overpowering.

The genius twist comes from the croutons. Instead of just being a crunchy afterthought, they are the source of a delightful, subtle heat that elevates the entire dish. This spicy kick provides a modern edge without overwhelming the classic flavors. A flawless execution of a beloved classic with a creative spark that makes it unforgettable.

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Appetizer

Roni Cups & Ranch

Bad Roman's menu is full of inventive dishes, and the Roni Cups & Ranch stands out as one of the highlight appetizers. This isn't your average plate of pepperoni; it's a creative and incredibly satisfying dish that you likely won't find anywhere else in the city.

The star is the "roni cups" — impressively large, thick-cut slices of pepperoni baked into the shape of cups. The presentation is as creative as it is delicious. Each cup is bursting with flavor and has the perfect amount of saltiness.

The dish is served with a side of ranch dressing that complements the pepperoni perfectly. The cool, creamy ranch is the perfect counterpoint to the savory, slightly spicy roni — a balanced and addictive bite. A simple idea executed perfectly.

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Pasta

Penne Luongo

Bad Roman's Penne Luongo is their take on the classic Cacio e Pepe, enhanced with the luxurious touch of black truffle. The dish presents itself beautifully, featuring unique long, thick penne pasta cooked to a perfect al dente.

Flavor-wise, it hits all the right notes for a classic cacio e pepe. The peppery, cheesy sauce coats the pasta well, creating a comforting and familiar taste. The freshly shaved black truffle on top certainly elevates the flavor profile, adding earthy aroma and depth.

However, while the dish is well-executed and has all the right components, no single element truly stands out to make it a showstopper. A very good, decent cacio e pepe that isn't missing anything, but it might not be the most memorable dish on a menu full of bold and inventive options.

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Dessert

Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake

Ending a meal at Bad Roman on a high note is easy, especially with the Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake on the menu. This dessert is a standout and easily ranks as one of the two best they offer.

This is a great ice cream cake that masterfully captures the essential espresso flavor without being overwhelmingly sweet. The balance is perfect. Each bite contains all the right elements — creamy mascarpone, rich coffee-infused ice cream, and delightful crunchy bits that provide wonderful textural contrast.

What's truly impressive is how this inventive version is arguably better than many traditional tiramisus. A refreshing yet decadent finish to the meal — an absolute must-try.

From the Bar

Liquid Notes

Order

Tequila Granita

Stands out with its unique presentation, resembling a sophisticated, spiked slushy thanks to habanero shaved ice. Incredibly refreshing, with just a slight taste of Codigo Blanco tequila and a delicate aftertaste of Calabrian chili honey. Elegant.

Ciao, Mama

Smoky and fruity but quite alcohol-heavy. Ilegal Mezcal is the star, but the fizz from San Pellegrino doesn't really come through. A solid choice for any mezcal enthusiast — just not a personal favorite.

The Verdict

Dish Deconstructed

A four-pillar framework. One to five.

First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
3
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
4
/ 5
Honestly Speaking

Order the Spicy Gem Caesar — one of the best in the city. The Roni Cups and Tiramisu Ice Cream Cake earn their reputations.

In Context

The Critics, Side by Side

Honestly Speaking 3.5 / 5
Yelp4.1 / 5
Google4.1 / 5
The Infatuation7.6 / 10