Vol. I · New York · MMXXV
For Those Who Prioritize the Palate
A Review — New York

Atoboy

A modern Korean tasting that reimagines banchan as the main event — and arrives with one of the city's finest grilled squid.

Atoboy reimagines the traditional banchan, or side dish, as the main event. Helmed by Junghyun "JP" Park and Ellia Park (whose more formal sibling Atomix holds two Michelin stars), Atoboy has become a destination on its own terms — and across five courses, it delivered the most consistent meal in this archive.

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First Course

Sea Urchin

The Sea Urchin Appetizer at Atoboy is the perfect overture to a memorable meal. The very first bite is an explosion of complex flavors and textures, a masterful composition that immediately captivates the palate. There's a comforting familiarity in the rich, oceanic taste of the fresh sea urchin and the savory notes of the gim (seaweed), which ground the dish in its Korean roots.

What truly elevates this appetizer are its incredible layers. A silky, delicate egg custard, or jjim, provides a luxurious base, its subtle flavor and sublime texture creating a perfect canvas for the other ingredients. The addition of quinoa introduces a delightful textural contrast that keeps every spoonful interesting.

It's a testament to the chef's skill that each component is so well-defined and flavorful that the custard and seaweed could easily stand as a delicious dish on their own. This isn't just an appetizer; it's a statement.

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Third Course

Grilled Squid

The Grilled Squid is, without exaggeration, one of the best seafood dishes you will likely ever have. This dish is a masterclass in flavor and texture, featuring tender squid ingeniously stuffed with succulent shrimp — a pairing that simply works in perfect harmony.

What truly sets this dish apart is the sesame and chili sauce; it is absolutely to die for, providing a rich, nutty, and spicy foundation that coats every bite. The addition of chili crisp and oil introduces a welcome, well-balanced heat that lingers pleasantly.

It's the details, however, that push this dish from great to extraordinary. The micro cilantro is not just a garnish; it elevates the taste to a whole new level, cutting through the richness with a fresh, herbal note. This is a simple, great hot appetizer that is so satisfying you'll wish it were available as a main course.

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Fourth Course

Pork Galbi

The Pork Galbi is a standout entrée that perfectly showcases the kitchen's mastery of flavor and technique. The meat is incredibly flavorful yet surprisingly light, cooked and seared to perfection until it effortlessly falls off the bone. Every single bite is a perfect harmony of taste and texture.

The sauce is the soul of this dish, packing a punch of umami with a slight, beautiful sweetness that pairs exquisitely with the rich pork. As with the other remarkable dishes, the inclusion of a sesame element elevates the entire plate to a new level of deliciousness.

Served with potato and sunchoke that complement the galbi wonderfully, this is a truly great entrée. I 100% recommend this dish.

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Signature Add-on

Fried Chicken

The Fried Chicken at Atoboy is, simply put, one of the best you will ever taste. It's no wonder this is a signature dish. The chicken itself is the star — super moist and packing a ton of flavor — thanks to a remarkably light tempura batter that keeps the focus exactly where it should be.

What elevates this dish to legendary status are the accompanying spicy peanut and yangyummy sauces. They provide an incredible layer of elevated umami and a heightened texture that complements the chicken perfectly. There's a pleasant, lingering taste of the sauces long after you've finished a bite, leaving you wanting more.

This is a dish that lives up to its reputation. I will definitely be ordering it again on my next visit.

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Dessert

Sujeonggwa Granita

The Sujeonggwa Granita is a great ending to a fantastic meal, a dessert that is both complex and wonderfully light. The first spoonful is a flavor bomb, revealing intricate layers that work together in perfect harmony.

The dessert is not overly sweet, allowing the individual components to shine. The lychee yogurt provides a comforting and familiar taste, beautifully complemented by the subtle, spiced notes of the sujeonggwa granita. The burrata, cleverly folded into the yogurt, adds a surprising and delightful creaminess. To complete the experience, candied walnuts provide a satisfying crunch and a lovely aftertaste.

From the Bar

Liquid Notes

Order

Nine Lives

Wonderfully pleasant and fruity, refreshing and light. Pineapple on the first sip, followed by a lovely honey aftertaste. Not too alcohol-forward — easy-drinking and highly recommended.

Order

Naegroni

A sophisticated, lighter take on the classic Negroni. Strong orange aroma and a prominent orange finish. The expected habanero heat is surprisingly absent, making for a more subtle, refined cocktail.

The Verdict

Dish Deconstructed

A four-pillar framework. One to five.

First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
5
/ 5
Technical Execution
4
/ 5
Order Again
5
/ 5
Honestly Speaking

Order the Grilled Squid — possibly the best seafood dish you'll have all year. The Fried Chicken add-on is non-negotiable.

In Context

The Critics, Side by Side

Honestly Speaking 4.5 / 5
Yelp4.3 / 5
Google4.5 / 5
The Infatuation8.6 / 10