Tucked into Jean Nouvel's 53W53 tower beside MoMA — a sophisticated dining room where the Black Cod Clay Pot is the unmistakable star.
By Tony Abraham
VisitedJuly 26, 2025
CuisineContemporary Asian
NeighborhoodMidtown
Helmed by Chef Akmal Anuar, 53 pulls inspiration from Chinese, Japanese, and Southeast Asian traditions in a sleek, art-filled space. The setting is undeniably part of the experience, but our concern was the kitchen. Here is what the plates told us.
———
Appetizer
Seaweed Salad
Of the many delightful dishes I tried at 53, the Seaweed Salad was a surprising and memorable standout. The first bite is an explosion of flavor and texture, a clear indication of a thoughtfully constructed dish. A pleasant, oceanic taste from the perfectly tender seaweed is the foundation, but it's the subtle peanut aftertaste that truly intrigues the palate.
What makes this salad exceptional is its complexity; it keeps you coming back for more, with each bite revealing a new layer. The sauce is undoubtedly the star, a masterful concoction that ties everything together with a perfect balance of savory and tangy notes. The candied walnuts provide a sweet, nutty crunch, while the toasted sesame seeds add a deep, aromatic richness. A final hint of crispness from finely julienned apple cuts through the flavors, adding a refreshing counterpoint.
———
Appetizer
Duck Pie Tee
Another standout starter is the Duck Pie Tee. As an appetizer, it hits all the right notes and is certainly one of the better duck dishes I've had in recent memory.
The duck, braised in a chipotle sauce, provides a pleasant, smoky kick that is bold without being overwhelming. This richness is perfectly balanced by the sharp, fresh notes of cilantro and the tang of pickled onions. The decision to serve this in a delicate, crispy pie tee shell is inspired — it provides a satisfying crunch that contrasts wonderfully with the tender filling.
While it may not have the same intricate layers and "wow" factor as the seaweed salad, the Duck Pie Tee excels as a masterfully balanced appetizer.
———
Entrée
Black Cod Clay Pot
The undeniable highlight at 53 is the Black Cod Clay Pot, a dish that impresses from the moment it arrives at the table. The presentation is brilliant, served steaming in a traditional clay pot, creating a sense of occasion and releasing a wonderfully strong aroma of the cod.
The first bite is simply fantastic. You get the rich, buttery flakes of the perfectly cooked cod combined with the unique texture of the rice. The cod is the undisputed star — moist, intensely flavorful, and cooked to perfection. The rice itself is masterfully done; not overly seasoned, allowing the fish to shine, but its texture is what makes it special. As you dig deeper into the pot, you reach the coveted crispy layer at the bottom — a delightful crunch that makes the dish truly stand out.
My only small critique is that I wished for a bit more of a kick. A few slices of fresh jalapeño would have elevated this already spectacular dish to another level. That said, this is a minor point in what is otherwise a flawless main course.
———
Dessert
Mango Pudding
The Mango Pudding proved to be a final, triumphant note. The presentation was spot on, a beautifully arranged dish that signaled a thoughtful end to the dining experience.
The first spoonful is a delightful puzzle of complex flavors. While definitively mango-forward, with a pure and luscious mango taste as its top note, it's the supporting elements that make it so compelling. A subtle bitterness from grapefruit adds a sophisticated edge, which is then cleverly cut by the creamy tang of Greek yogurt.
My only piece of constructive feedback would be the desire for a more pronounced crunchy component. There are some delicious crunchy bits of mango scattered throughout, but I found myself wishing there were more. Even with that small note, this is easily one of the better mango desserts I have had.
From the Bar
Liquid Notes
Order
Coke de Blanc
Elegant and surprisingly complex. Distinct, sophisticated aroma of champagne. Drinks like a multi-layered champagne concoction with a slight, pleasant bitterness perfectly complemented by a subtle sweet aftertaste.
Skip
Singapore Sip
Surprisingly medicinal first sip. The expected botanicals were muted, and the lime and Bénédictine notes weren't detectable. Refreshing on a basic level, but not to my liking.
The Verdict
Dish Deconstructed
A four-pillar framework. One to five.
First Bite
4
/ 5
Flavor Journey
4
/ 5
Technical Execution
3
/ 5
Order Again
4
/ 5
Honestly Speaking
The Black Cod Clay Pot is a must-order. The Seaweed Salad is a surprise standout — start the meal with it.